Highlight and Contour: Full Interview

Make Up Forever Kevin-James Bennett our Director of Pro Business Development and Artist Relations says:

thin the nose
I've always found that highlighting the bridge of the nose is much more flattering and realistic than contouring the sides. I like to use a foundation 3-4 shades lighter than the rest of the face and draw a line from top to bottom and then feather out to the sides.
shape the face
I study the natural contours of the face and then exaggerate the areas that fall into shadow with a contour color (usually a very taupey brown devoid of any strong yellow tone). Then I fade the contours by blending the foundation color back into the outer edges of the contour. Blending VERY well is key here.
emphasize cheek bones
The easiest way to "pop' a cheekbone is to highlight the diagonal area that spans from the side of the nose up to the outer corner of the eye. This not only emphasizes the cheekbone, it creates a beautiful light in the center of the face that makes the eyes pop.
highlight brow bones
NEVER use a white shadow or anything shimmering to highlight the brow bone. Simply use a foundation or eyeshadow 2-3 shades lighter than the rest of the face. This should be a subtle, flattering highlight, not and un-natural focus point.

Celebrity makeup artist Troy Jensen (Kim Kardashian’s favorite) offers the following tips:

The art of contouring starts with a prepped face of a light moisturizer, then apply a cream or liquid highlighter, for fair skin tones, use a white pearl, Med skintones use a shimmery beige, and for dark skin tone, bronze or gold works best.

Apply highlighter with a small concealer brush and apply it to certain areas of the face only, not all over. just area's that look amazing when the light hits the face. Such as the top of the cheek bones, down the center of the nose , above the bow of the lips, and the inner part of the eyes near the tear duct. Then apply your liquid foundation with a foundation brush. The highlighter will glow through the make up, giving a natural glow that is not too glittery.

Contouring can be done with dark cream foundation or with a matte powder bronzer or dark face powder.
Dust the powder bronzer to contour under the cheek bone and along the jaw line to get rid of double chins as well as fullness to the face. If you have a long nose. Instead of contouring both sides of the nose to give the look that it's more narrow, dust a bronzer across the bridge of the nose. This will give the appearance the nose is not as long.

Highlighting areas like the brow bone, should not be highlighted with a shimmer, but rather a matte shadow in a pale skintone shade. Like bone, or off white.

The key is that it should look natural, so blend, blend , blend.


Joanna Schlip, celebrity makeup artist for Physicians Formula:
To emphasize cheek bones, make a fish face and brush bronzer or the darkest shade of the trio underneath the bone, where the hollow starts. On the highest point of cheekbones, dust a lighter highlighting shade.
To thin the nose, use the darkest shade of the trio (or any bronzer) on both sides of the nose to streamline it and use the lightest color on the bridge of the nose. To make a nose look shorter or reduce a bump, use the darkest color side-to-side across the bump or on the tip to make it shorter
To highlight brow bones, I love the Physicians Formula Shimmer Strips Custom Bronzer, Blush & Eye Shadow in Sunset Strip. Use this or any shimmer powder (anything that reflects light) above the eyebrow and right below the brow. A kabuki brush is great for sweeping shimmer right on top of the brow area – just make sure to blend really well and don’t forget to rub any excess powder off the hair.
One product that’s great for contouring is the Physicians Formula Organic Wear 100% Natural Origin Face Sculpting Trio.”

Alphonse Weibelt, Vice President of Brand Development at BeingTRUE:
“Apply a neutral tan powder along cheek bones, temples into the hairline, and along the jaw line to create dimension. This will help give an overall slimmer appearance. Try Protective Mineral Foundation in Tan 1.

Also play up facial features like the eye brows, lash-line and eye lashes and steer away from dark eye makeup or contrasting features like dark lips. Apply a warm neutral gloss over the lips - try Aglow sheer lip shine - a shade anyone can wear.”

Tips from Jillian Dempsey, AVON Global Creative Color Director:

How to emphasize cheek bones:
Start by smiling to see the apples of your cheeks and then apply a dot of cream blush, like Avon’s Be Blushed Sticks, to the center of the cheeks. Use your fingers to blend upwards towards the outside of the face. Follow by layering on an iridescent powder to lock in the color but avoid applying it to the t-zone to limit shine.

How to thin the nose:
The key to contouring the nose is using matte bronzer and loose powder to create definition. Start by using a small brush to lightly apply a loose powder like Avon’s Ideal Shade Loose Powder down the center of the nose. Follow by using a fan brush to add bronzer to the sides of the nose, creating contrasting color that adds dimension to the nose. Finish by using a powder brush to wisk away any access powder that may have fallen and set in fine lines.

Prescriptives Director of Artistry, Jillian Veran:

Using an illuminator to highlight skin can help you glow, but too much can create an unwanted shine.

An illuminator, like *magic Illuminating Liquid Potion, on the top of the cheek or over blush is a great way to get a subtle glow. Be sure to use a semi matte blush to avoid overdoing the glow.

If using the illuminator over the entire face, be sure to use a big soft brush and only lightly dust over skin.

To create subtle drama for cheeks and eyes, tap your blush brush with your blush color on it over the illuminator, tap off excess and apply. Do the same for your base eyeshadow color.

CARGO artist Annesley Broadhead:
The idea behind contouring and highlighting the face is to bring out our best features and minimize minor flaws. The most important thing to remember is that if you are going to play with contouring and highlighting it must look natural. Contouring and highlighting plays with shadow and light, just like a black and white picture. To make something look deep or recessed (contoured) you use a shadow; to pull something out (highlight) you use a light shade.
There are a few ways to contour and highlight. Make-up artists will often use a combination of light and dark foundations. For everyday women there are lots of great products that can achieve realistic results. Here's how:
To thin the nose:
Shade the edges of the nose using a flat eye shadow brush and a bit of matte bronzer of matte taupe colored eye shadow. Lightly apply along either side of the bridge of the nose from the inner corner of the eyes down to the tip of the nose. Now use your finger to blend downwards towards the cheeks so that it does not look like a stripe. Next apply a touch of light champagne colored eye shadow in a soft line down the center of the nose from the bridge to the tip. Again blend well for a natural effect. I recommend using the CARGO Matte Bronzer to shade along the nose and CARGO EyeLighter™ in Gold as the highlight. EyeLighter™ can also be used to pop and brighten the eyes.
To shape the face and emphasize the cheekbones:
Apply your foundation as usual and then apply a very light shade of concealer along the upper edges of the cheekbone; this will pull out the cheekbone. Powder as usual. Apply a matte bronzing powder such as CARGO blu_ray™ Bronzer under the cheekbones to contour. To find the proper placement, hold a pencil against the face from 1 cm above the upper part of the ear to the outer corner of the mouth. This is the most flattering angle to place the contour color. Now apply the same matte contour shade along your jaw line to create a more angled jaw. (This is a great tip for those with a more rounded face shape.) If you have a longer chin that you wish to minimize, place the contour shade under the chin as well. To minimize a prominent forehead, a little contour along the side of the forehead by the hairline will work wonders. Just remember: when shaping your face it is all about being subtle and bringing out your best features. If you go overboard, you will look too made-up. Embrace you beauty!
To highlight brow bones:
This is the simplest trick and can take years off your eyes giving the look of an eyelift without surgery. After applying your eye shadow, use a soft white or cream color directly under the eyebrow along the arch. The shadow can be matte or shimmering depending on what you prefer. Complement the under brow highlight by placing just a tiny dab above the brows just past the arch. This draws an onlookers eye upwards and adds even more lift. I love CARGO EyeLighter™ because it is designed just for highlighting the eyes and can be easily tossed in the purse for touch ups.

celebrity makeup artist Terri Apanasewicz’s (includes Cindy Crawford, Gisele
Bundchen and Miley Cyrus as clients) on highlighting and contouring:

thin the nose: Use just a shade darker than your usual foundation or the softest hint of a powder (MAC Taupe eye shadow is a good one). Apply to each side of your nose and make sure to blend. Then powder so it will disappear to the naked eye into the rest of your makeup.
shape the face: For this, a matte bronzer is best or “Hoola” blush from Benefit. Lightly dust it around the parameter of your face, gently hitting the high points. Creating dimension in your face should always be subtle and effective.
emphasize cheek bones: Using one shade darker that your usual foundation, brush it under your cheek bones making sure there is no definite start and stops with the brush. Amazing Cosmetics Velvet mineral foundation is a personal favorite – it’s subtle and does the trick.
highlight brow bones: Use a light shade eye shadow, matte for day and a little sheen for night. I like a cream or soft pink. Apply just under the brow bone along the arch of the brow. It doesn’t have to be heavy to be dramatic. Anastasia has great brow highlighter pencils, just make sure to soften the edges with your ring finger.

Girls Guide: Base Shadows - Full Inteview Trascript

Mary Beth York of MB York Beauty:

"When choosing a base eyeshadow color, the determining factor should be your skin tone. My rule is, the lighter the skin tone, the lighter the base color, and the deeper the skin, the darker the base. For example, someone with very light porcelain skin would do great with a ballerina pink base. Someone with a medium to dark skin tone do well with a medium peachy base. You can always add a little lighter color on the browbone for night, but for the perfect everyday color, these are my rules. My Paint by Number Eyeshadow Kit comes with both colors I am describing, as well as a fool proof diagram and co-ordinating numbered brushes with the shadows."

Eugenia Weston (Emmy-nominated celebrity makeup artist and founder of Senna Cosmetics) had these tips to share:
Applying a powdered matte Ivory shadow on the entire eyelid from lash to brow always gives a clean look, de-emphasizes discolorations, opens the eye and allows for a smooth application of brighter and/or deeper eye shadows to shape and contour the lid. Rule of thumb is that most women look good in an off-white or ivory shade, like Senna's 'Pure', 'Old Ivory' or 'Canvas'. Whereas darker toned women need a deeper beige-tone like 'Moonlight'.
MAKEUP ARTIST RULE: Light brings forward. Dark shades recede and define. Color rounds out an area.

1. Apply all over lid with a medium sized 'Fluff' shadow brush made of natural hair.

2. The palest of shadow is for the fairest skin tone like 'Pure (a pinkish-white tone) For medium skin tones use 'Old Ivory' (a warm creamy shade) or 'Canvas' (a pinky-beige tone). For darker skin tones, 'Moonlight' (a warm beige tone).

3. A neutral, cream eye shadow primer is essential for long wearability, eye shadows staying true to color and preventing creasing. Apply a small amount over entire eyelid to brow with a sable brush or finger. Then dust on translucent powder to set, then continue with normal eye shadow application. Senna's Totally Transforming Eye Shadow Primer with Peptides smoothes the lid as well and shadows won't budge.

4. Matte shadows create a smooth clean finish. I like to use shimmer shadows in the inner corner of the eyelid in a 'V' shape, this is an especially good trick on deep-set eyes to make them POP. Also apply in the center of the lid and under the brow bone as the reflective finish makes the shape stand out more. Women that have a lot of wrinkles should stay clear of metallic's and shimmer as they act as little mirrors reflecting wrinkles more.

5. To contour and shape the eye, use neutral browns like Senna's 'Tobacco' and 'Nudist' in the crease with an Ivory base. For paler skin-tones use a browned plum like Senna’s 'Aperitif' or 'Taupe' in the crease. Deeper skin-tones use 'Espresso' or 'Black Sands'.

Borghese:

For the perfect background for any shadow powder cream or liquid use Borghese’s Eye shadow base. Smooth on a small amount from lash to lid for every day long wearing color. __For full impact color and all night eye brilliance start with Borghese’s Eye shadow base .cover the eye from lash to brow for that all night hold and true color pigment __OMARI OSWALD PETERSON _Make-up Artist /Radio Beauty Correspondent

For a specially bright eye with lots of pop use Borghese’s Splendore cover the entire lid from lash to brow and apply shadow on top __To make eyes open pop and sparkle use Borghese’s Splendore just below the brow and blend down to crease. Apply a wash of color over the lid and blend upward on to crease __Omari Ozwald Peterson_Make-up Artist / Radio Beauty correspondent

NARS International Lead Makeup Stylist, Uzo Ukaeje:

1.To even out the skin tone on eyelid or to camoflauge redness or darkness use a flesh-toned powder shadow._e.g. NARS single powder shadow in Biarritz, Edie or Abyssinia which are all light cream/beige in color._A powder shadow used as a base will also allow for more seamless blending of subsequent color placed onto eyelid and crease. __NARS powder eyeshadows are the best in the industry today and are known for their rich texture and fabulous pigment. They also make the best powder shadow bases as they are long-wearing and crease resistant.__2.To 'set the stage' for a smokey eye by creating depth e.g. NARS cream shadow in Zardoz (pure black ink), Paper Tiger( rich toffee), or Lili Marlene( stormy gray). This would only be applied to the eyelid blending upwards towards the crease. This will allow for easier and smoother blending when darker powder eyeshadows are layered on top._May use your finger to apply cream shadow or with a brush for more precision.__NARS cream shadows' unique cream-to-shadow formula allows for superior blending which is a must when creating a smokey eye.__3.To create dimension by adding luminosity e.g. NARS cream shadows Pearl Beach which has a subtle pink pearlescent shimmer or Savage with its bronze shimmer make regular powder shadows glisten when used as a base.__4. For the simple reason of allowing powder shadow to adhere longer to the eye._NARS concealer is the perfect shadow base: it's vitamin E-enriched formula not only nourishes but also camouflages redness and dark circles while providing a non-drying base for powder shadows. _Lightweight and creamy, this concealer will not settle into fine lines and creases.


tarte’s makeup artist, Jasen Kaplan:

“A base shadow is the foundation for a long wearing look on the eye. There are two types of base shadows, a powder shadow and a cream shadow. For a dramatic eye or impactful color, use a cream base shadow. I like to use a concealer brush to apply the cream to the eyelid, then I pack the powder pigment on top with a sable blender brush! This gives a long wearing impactful look. For an all day shimmery lid, use a tarte lock and roll waterproof cream shadow as your base and set it with lock and roll's loose pigment shadow. My favorite is rose gold! For a softer more diffused shadow, use a skin toned powder eyeshadow all over the eye from lash line blended up to the crease. This gives you a "clean canvas" to blend your other shadows on top. I like to use a deep peach blended into the crease for a natural looking shape and a shimmery vanilla in the corner of the eyes to "pop" the look, leaving the lids base soft and natural.”

CARGO’s Annesley Broadhead:

A perfect base eye shadow is a must have for every girls make-up base. It is the foundation to great eye make-up, just like priming a canvas before painting a work of art.

A base eye shadow brightens the eye area, gives a lift under the eye brow, allows your other eye shadows to blend more easily and prevents messy creasing in the crease area of the eye. It is an essential step in your application and should never be skipped.

Ideally, your base shadow should be about one shade lighter than your skin tone. So if you are fair look for shades in ivory, ecru and linen. For darker skin tones such as African American skin tones, opt for shades in soft amber and golden honey.

For an ultra long wearing effect apply a bit of foundation or concealer on the lids first, and then follow with your base eye shadow. Your base eye shadow should be applied over the entire eye area from lash line right up to the brow. Use a nice full brush that is densely backed and not too fluffy. This will deposit a lot of color on the lids, which is what you want.

Don't skimp on your base since it will help your other colors last. Some of my personal favorite eye shadows include the CARGO Essential Palette in Warm Neutral for Fair skin tones and Dark Neutral for dark skin tones. These palettes have great classic shades including a lid and highlight shade perfect as a base shadow. Even better, they are labeled with the application instruction so applying your make-up has never been easier.


MAC Bianca Alexander, Director of Makeup Artistry:

Over eyes that have been hydrated with eye cream, or perhaps even “primed”, a base shadow is the building block for a perfect eye shadow application each and every time. Blending is key to achieving an airbrushed quality to your makeup application…and there are a variety of textures out there to help you achieve the perfect combination. In addition, an eye base should work to brighten up the eye space, and aid in making colors appear vivid as well. There is no need to pack on a base to reap its benefits…by choosing the right base in texture and tone, a sheer application of product should be sufficient.

Go for matte or velvet textures as a base when building a sculpted or smokey eye with matte shadows. This will insure a smooth application of color and avoid “skipping”:
0. A matte vanilla or bisque is a great essential for fair to medium olive skin tones, and can be used with those core neutrals, and deep shading colors…think caramels, espressos, graphites, aubergines, and indigos…and even brighter spectrum colors such as peaches, pinks, and plums.
0. M.A.C Faves: Brule

0. A matte pale ivory infused with a bit of pink or peach is a key choice for fair to medium skin tones with a rosy or warmer hue. This base works great with neutrals as well, but particularly for colors that lean towards the cooler spectrum…such as indigos, turquoises, magentas, violets, lavenders, and graphites.
0. M.A.C Faves: Orb
0. A matte pale mango is the perfect shade for medium to deeper skin tones, and can be used with both vivid and deeper shades of chocolates, plums, espressos, and blackened jewel tones.
0. M.A.C Faves: Biscuit or Bamboo

Go for bases that carry a shimmer when building a uniform wash of color, a sculpted contour, or smokey eye with matte shadows. This will add a different dimension to the eyes by mixing up the textures a bit, and will add a touch of glamour.
0. Pearl and honey tones work beautifully as nude options for fair to medium olive skin tones, and will cast buttery sheens on those with more rosy/pink hues. These tones can be used as base for caramels, espressos, plums, and charcoal tones.
0. M.A.C Faves: Dazzlelight, All That Glitters

0. Classic whites and pale pink shimmers would brighten up fair to medium rosy complexions beautifully, and could be partnered with any neutral as well, while giving a boost to brighter shades too.

Pro Tip: Use a pearl or honey toned shadow with a shimmer as a base first, before applying a fresh matte apricot through the crease to sculpt the lids. Wrap this color combination through the lower lashes, emphasizing a rounder shape. Then finish by curling lashes before applying mascara to both top and bottom lashes. The look is very feminine, but modern in it’s transparency of color and tone.

Creamy textured shadows can be used as a base for matte textures as well, but are quintessential for shadows or loose pigments that have a shimmer or frost. The metallic smokey eye has practically become a must for every season in various shades and form, and a creamy base is the secret to a “runway” application of color. A great advantage to working with creams is that a multitude of shades can be used with one sole color, and they will all work…for example…a metallic gunmetal eye shadow applied over a bronzy base will bring out the best of both tones, however, the same gunmetal would look gorgeous with an opalescent white or pink base as well.
0. Choosing a cream base that is closest to your skintone with a bit of warmth…such as a pearl, golden, peach, or tan hue can be considered an essential for working with any shade that carries a sheen. This tone would be the perfect nude option, and will reduce shimmer “fall out” as you blend.
0. M.A.C Faves: Pearl, Shell, Hush in Cream Color Base

0. Choosing a cream base that is deeper in tone, such as a graphite, bronze, or chocolate should be applied with intensity directly above the lash line and sheered out through the crease/contour. In essence, building a smokey eye with a creams first, then building the metallic hue directly on top. This will increase the intensity and depth of the metallic (think pewter, deep bronzes, blackened emeralds, indigos, and plums) which can be quite stunning as well.
0. M.A.C Faves: Bronze, Airforce Blue in Cream Color Base

Pro Tip: For your inner rock chic, choose a cream base that is neutral in tone that carries a bit of shimmer with a soft, but firm brush. Next, use a metallic shade in a gunmetal or pewter to shade a halo of color around the eyes, keeping the color away from the brow bone. Then use a matte charcoal black shadow to shade through the crease, and to elongate the outer corners of eyes. Finish with a generous application of black kohl pencil through the lower lashes and a rich mascara application on both top and bottom lashes. Keep the rest of the face perfected but bare, and no nonsense…just a bit of lip balm and your ready to go.

Lori Taylor, Lead Artist Smashbox Cosmetics:

Base shades in general will even the tone of lid color to ensure that your eyes shadow will appear brighter and more true to color

Light Skin tone

The best base shade tones for fair to light skin tones will usually have a nude to fleshly under tone (think fleshy pink) and are best when the have a matte consistency. (i.e. sand or concept), For a pop to smoky eye nighttime eyes use base shades that have shimmer to widen and brighten. (i.e bliss)

Medium
The best bases shade for medium and olive tones will have a yellow base (i.e. vanilla). These tones will even lid color and brighten the eye area. For night it’s always best to add a shadow that is more golden and shimmery (i.e. champagne)

Dark
The best shade for darker skins will usually have a bit more color but will always have a warmer or peachy/orange undertone to even out the darkness that a deeper skin can have (i.e. nude or design). For added drama at night you can even choose shade that have a high metallic to give pop. (ambient, 24K, fizz)

One key element that has been played up this fall are the metallic cool shades of deep pewter and gunmetal. Smashbox Platinum shadow is a great base shade for all skin tones to compliment this eye shadow application.

Jillian Veran, Prescriptives Director of Artistry:

Most women use an eye shadow to combat 3 issues
• 1..Oily eyelids
• 2..Discolored eyelids
• 3. Extended wear

Here are tips for all three;

Oily eyelids: If you have eyelids that tend to be oily make sure all remains of your eyemake up remover is gone before going to bed, a good swipe with a damp tissue over the eyelid should do it.
In the morning be sure to blot your eyelid with a tissue to absorb excess oil, and be sure your eye cream is try before applying anything. This will definitely help you prepare for a smooth make up application

Discolored eyelids: First thing to remember is there is a difference between eyelids that are veiny and discolored, and eyelids that are slightly darker then the rest of the skin around the eye area.
If your eyelids are just slight darker then the skin around the rest of the eye area, congratulations you have build in eyeshadow. To enhance this look simply choose an eyeshadow that is the same or one shade darker then your own natural color. Follow with a liner and mascara and POW beautiful natural make up.

If your eyelids are veiny and discolored in a way that takes away from your eyes follow these simple steps.
1. Determine your skin tone..Look at the tone around your eyes, is it warm? Does it look beige, yellow or gold? If the discoloration around the eye is greenish, yellowish or brownish you are most likely warm. If the color around the eye is pink, transparent or greyish, with a pinkish discoloration under the eye you are most likely cool.
2. If you are warm look for warm tone base colors, such as vanilla, champagne or beige. If you are cool look for base colors such as chiffon, or pearl, or soft white
3. Check your skin level..If you are very soft like Nicole Kidman, your base colors should be the same level, if you are a deeper skin like Alec Twek your base shade should be deep.Stay within your own range
4. If your eyelids are veiny use a cream shadow lightly across the eyelid, follow with a slight dusting
5. Matte’s and soft shadows work the absolute best for bases as they don’t interfere with whatever look you may want to achieve
6. Using a shimmer base with a shimmer eye eyeshadow may create more disco ball then debutant
7. Base shades should be swept lightly across the entire eye lid to brow, using a larger sized shadow brush..Prescriptives Soft Shadow brush is amazing for base shades..
8. Don’t make your base eyeshadow too thick or you will grey out anything else you put over it, keep it sheer and pat it in
9. When working with a super dark smoky eye use a base shade several shades deeper then your own to keep the look simple and focused
10. To really work Cream Eye Shadow in seamlessly use a concealer brush then tap out with finger

Extended wear: Follow the tips for oily eyelids, then use a little cream eyeshadow across eyelid, lightly dust and set with base shade in your own range and skin tone

The Best Base Colors
Warm: Vanilla/Champagne (light) Bean/Brownie (medium/very deep)
Cool: White Wash/Chiffon..(light) Venus/Charcoal(medium/very deep)

Creamy Eye Color Base Colors
Warm; Chamois/Lychee
Cool: Moonstone Pink Pearl